Tuesday, 9 October 2012

Jamaica - No Problem Don't Stop the Carnival


The Pinta
The Nina
The Santa Maria
The father son and holy ghost
Coming across the water-
The billowing ships
Full of adventurers and seasoned sailors
All scrambling around the decks
Like mutinous spiders….
Startling the flying-fish
And the long sleep of history.
(Grace Nichols, Jamaican poet)

In 1962 Jamaica became an independent state. Jamaica has had a troubled history from the arrival of Columbus at Discovery Bay in 1494 up to the present. The Spanish settled Jamaica until 1655 when they were chased out by the British, legend has it, from the aptly-named Runaway Bay. Jamaica was the reward for Cromwell’s soldiers after their conquest in Ireland. They took with them 5,000 young boys and girls from Ireland to settle Jamaica. They were the first slaves. Seeing that Jamaica was an ideal place to produce sugar and spice for the European market the British initiated the African slave trade to meet such needs. Much of European aristocracy owes its wealth to Jamaican and Caribbean slavery. The indigenous population of Jamaica, Arawak Indians, are extinct.

Thus began a brutal period of Jamaica’s history that is conveniently bleached out of European history. People were worked to the bone in cruel conditions leaving Jamaica with a culture of brutality that was not purged at abolition in 1838. Abolition was earned by the sacrifices of many members of the Baptist church who gave their lives for freedom, decency and equality. 

The slave owners were indemnified, like the modern bankers, while the freed slaves were left to fend for themselves. The local plantation economy then tried to import poor Europeans, Irish, English, Welsh, Scots, and Germans to occupy the highlands forcing the recently freed slaves to live in the plains adjacent to the sugar plantations. That venture failed so they then brought indentured workers from China and India. European prisoners of war were deposited in Jamaica during the Second World War. Over time many other people arrived and settled from a wide variety of cultures giving Jamaica a reason to describe itself at Independence in 1962 as “OUT OF MANY ONE PEOPLE.” Grace Nichols weaves the human multicultural quilt that is Jamaica.

But there were other ships
Rocked by dreams
And fears of and promise
Rolling
with new arrivals
across the Atlantic
from the fields of Bengal
and Uttar Pradesh,
from Kowloon
and Canton.
from Madeira
and Ireland.

As in many other newly independent states, little time or thought was given to confront the past and its inequities. There was a rush to change signs and symbols. The education structures needed to change attitudes of subversion developed to cope with life during slavery and colonisation, the low self esteem of subjugation, the social violence that was normalised, were inadequate to steer Jamaica towards a different future. The legacy of violence, unresolved anguish and societal fragmentation in Jamaica is still apparent in many ways particularly in the annual murder rate of over 1,000 in a population of just over two million. Violence is de-creative.

However, given the ills that country suffers from, Jamaica is a beautiful country with great people. One can only admire the spirit of a people that suffered so much but came out of it in the end with great dignity, creativity, energy and enterprise. But, like many other small populated island economies, Jamaica has not been able to offer its people the choice of remaining at home. A large Jamaican diaspora annually remits about two billion dollars. Tourism is the industry that offers most Jamaicans employment and foreign exchange. But there is a lot of seepage due to food imports for the tourist industry. This is due to poor organisation of Jamaican agriculture. Yet, Jamaica exports many commodities such as sugar, rum, a wide variety of spices, bauxite and of course music. Ask any high school class if they know any famous Jamaican and they will answer Bob Marley. Right now Bob’s popularity may be threatened, at least for this weekend, by Usain Bolt and the other excellent Jamaican athletes taking part in the London Olympics.

Jamaica’s cuisine is as multifaceted as its population is multicultural. Traditional Jamaican breakfast is salt fish from Newfoundland, akee and breadfruit brought by Captain Bligh from the South Pacific and kalalou.

Ireland has many connections with Jamaica. The first slaves were Irish. Salt beef and other products were exported from the port of Galway. Jamaicans are quick to inform that many of the plantation managers in slavery were Irish. At independence in 1962 a number of the ministers in the new government, Drs. Herbert Eldemire and Marco Brown, were graduates of the Royal College of Surgeons, Dublin. Dr. Eldemire was the first minister of health in the new government and Dr. Brown was the minister for tourism. There were many other Jamaican graduates from Irish universities who contributed to Jamaican life. 

Jamaica will celebrate its independence in the usual carnival spirit with reggae, jerk chicken, rum and gold medals from the London Olympics. The three hundred and fifty different Christian denominations in Jamaica will add their own biblical spice to the festivities. But these alone are not sufficient to deal with Jamaica’s debt, greater than Greece, a 1% growth rate and high unemployment since independence. At independence Jamaica had a 6% annual growth rate. Yet, Jamaica has been hospitable over time to those refugees seeking shelter from upheavals Haiti, Cuba and elsewhere.      

All Jamaican institutions will be challenged to renew, reform and plan a way forward that unites rather than divides and overcome the tendency of most post-colonial societies to pull apart rather than pull together in the national interest. Loyalty to political tribalism that fights over scare benefits and spoils is a disservice to a people who came through hell to be free.

Hopefully, the spirit of Bob Marley’s One Love/People Get Ready will inspire the leaders of Jamaican society to cast off the traits of the past and unite for a better future.

One love, one heart
Let’s get together and feel all right
Sayin’, “Give thanks and praise to the Lord and I will feel all right.”
Sayin’, “Let’s get together and feel all right.”
Bob Marley.

           

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